There is currently no free XSL-FO formatter besides FOP and a few others, which are (IMHO) not really usable. But that does not mean, XSL-FO is dead or so, it is used heavily in technical documentation.
Creating a full featured, standard compliant XSL-FO formatter is pretty hard, and FOP is not there yet. I'd guess that they are bitten by the pure complexity of the standard.
My company is currently creating another XSL-FO formatter with focus on high typographical output based on LuaTeX, so I know I bit of this area. It is not decided yet whether this will be open sourced or not. (Sorry that I can't help you there).
So my answer is: go with Apache FOP. Even if the last change is some time ago, it is pretty usable at this point. And XSL-FO is far from being dead. If you can afford it, use a decent XML Editor (such as OxygenXML) for editing, it makes editing XSL stylesheets fun. (I don't get any money by mentioning this.)