In Xcode, in only one project (that is, all other projects work the way I expect), in the Target Info window, build tab, the Code Signing Identity field-title does not have the twiddle to expose the "Any iPhone OS Device" field.
How do I add it or trigger its exposure?
Aha! I just had to look a little further. In the bottom of the info window is a little gear-icon and, under that popup is "Add Build Setting Condition" which, once added, produces a build-setting popup which contains "Any iPhone OS Device."
Whew!
(Hope this is helpful for the next guy...)