Most web programming nowadays is done with interpreted languages usually, but there are a host of server-side languages. Any of them can be picked up with ease.
It depends a bit on your platform, ASP.NET for example would be better suited for Windows hosts than Linux. And well, there are various other options that work well in both (Windows or Linux) environments.
Languages such as Perl, Python, Ruby, PHP, .NET, and Java come to mind. But really it comes down to what resources you have available to you. Do you have any friends at $work that have some experience? Such people can be very helpful when get confused about something.
The problem with your question is that its most likely going to boil down to a language war. The languages are for the most part irrelevant. It's a personal choice. As long as you select a language you have an interest in, you can do just about anything with it.
As to "raw" coding or the like, that is how I learned. In my opinion, nothing is going to teach you the ins and outs like doing it yourself. And expect to make very big mistakes. Painful ones. That's learning. Learn frameworks when you understand the language and how server-side programming differs than a client-side application. If you dive straight into a framework of any sort, I suspect you'd drown. I know I would have years ago.