I am trying to build a web application, similar in feel to something like GMail, with one persistent AJAXy page.
I am told that GWT is the way to do this most effectively. However, I also want a framework that I can use for other things besides single AJAXy pages. Is GWT more scalable than this, or should I spend the time and build this thing in ASP.net MVC or Django?
I should mention, I'm trying to LEARN a framework that will be suitable for me to do whatever in.
You can use GWT also for parts of the page (a single widget or two), but yes, you are right, even then it is geared towards the case where you do not refresh the page it lives on.
GWT works fine for both cases. I've written a couple applications at work with it, and I haven't had any trouble with multi-page navigation. As Thilo also mentioned, you can use as much or as little of GWT for manipulating your page(s) as you need or want.
You can do both styles of applications in ASP.NET MVC or GWT.
GWT makes it easier for GMail-type applications eg: web applications which mimic desktop application functionality.
On the other side, ASP.NET MVC is easier for dynamic sites. EG: This site is built on ASP.NET MVC, and if you look at it, its behaves more like a dynamic and interactive web site rather than a desktop-like application.
So its just easier to do web sites in one, and web applications in the other. So I'd think about what type of app you'd rather spend your time on and choose the framework accordingly - Realising, of course, that you can do both types of applications in either.
The nice thing of GWT is that in the end all you have is HTML and JavaScript. You can combine it with any other technology.
You can use GWT for the one page that needs ajaxy stuff and the rest with something more traditional.
Or you could even write everything with another framework and then put a GWT widget that needs more AJAX behaviours in a dedicated location of your page.
If you want to stay in the Java world you can use JSP,JSF, Struts, Wicket, or any other framework.
If you want you could even just combine GWT with a .NET or PHP. Just don't use the GWT RPC in that case (use JSON or some simple XML encoding instead).