GMail uses a large amount of java script to make its pages work. This javascript is manipulating the HTML DOM.
If you look at the page source you aren't seeing the current contents of the DOM. You need to use a tool that will show you the HTML DOM. I use Opera Dragonfly, but there are plenty of others for other browsers. Dragonfly will show the the scripts for the page, as well as the event handlers for each element of the DOM.
Edited 3 Nov 08:
In response to the request for access to the scripts, when I view the page the scripts all come up as inline. As others have said, they're obfuscated, so less than easy to read. Here is just a sample:
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function pa(a,b){return a.load=b}function d(a,b){return a.innerHTML=b}function qa(a,b){return a.onerror=b}function sa(a,b){return a.getDate=b}function ta(a,b){return a.value=b}function ua(a,b){return a.disabled=b}function va(a,b){return a.dispatchEvent=b}function wa(a,b){return a.currentTarget=b}function xa(a,b){return a.left=b}function ya(a,b){return a.hideFocus=b}function za(a,b){return a.removeChild=b}function Aa(a,b){return a.target=b}function Ba(a,b){return a.screenX=b}
function Ca(a,b){return a.screenY=b}function Da(a,b){return a.send=b}function Ea(a,b){return a.remove=b}function Fa(a,b){return a.start=b}function Ga(a,b){return a.cssText=b}function Ha(a,b){return a.keyCode=b}function Ia(a,b){return a.enabled=b}function Ja(a,b){return a.href=b}function Ka(a,b){return a.handleEvent=b}function La(a,b){return a.removeNode=b}function Ma(a,b){return a.detach=b}function Na(a,b){return a.type=b}function Oa(a,b){return a.contains=b}function Pa(a,b){return a.tabIndex=b}
function Qa(a,b){return a.cellSpacing=b}function Ra(a,b){return a.clear=b}function Sa(a,b){return a.setPosition=b}function Ta(a,b){return a.cellPadding=b}function Ua(a,b){return a.display=b}function Va(a,b){return a.execute=b}function Wa(a,b){return a.height=b}function Xa(a,b){return a.nodeValue=b}function Ya(a,b){return a.clientX=b}function Za(a,b){return a.clientY=b}function ab(a,b){return a.right=b}function bb(a,b){return a.visibility=b}
function aaa(a){var b=cb[i](db);(new Image).src=baa+eb(b)+"&jsmsg="+eb(a)+caa+fb+daa+(new Date)[gb]()}function _B_record(){cb[k]((new Date)[gb]())}function _B_prog(a){top.pr=a;if(hb===undefined){var b=top[ib][jb](eaa);hb=b?b[m]:null}if(hb){ka(hb,n[kb](a*0.99)+lb);if(a==100)hb=null}}function _B_err(a){aaa(a);throw a;}function mb(a,b){var c=a[nb](ob),e=b||pb;for(var f;f=c[rb]();)if(e[f])e=e[f];else return null;return e}function sb(){}function tb(a){a.lg=function $(){return a.bmc||(a.bmc=new a)}}
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function Vb(a,b,c){if(a.map)return a.map(b,c);if(Array.map)return Array.map(a,b,c);var e=a[o],f=[],g=0,h=Gb(a)?a[nb](v):a;for(var j=0;j<e;j++)if(j in h)f[g++]=b[q](c,h[j],j,a);return f}function Wb(a,b,c){if(a[Xb])return a[Xb](b,c);if(Array[Xb])return Array[Xb](a,b,c);var e=a[o],f=Gb(a)?a[nb](v):a;for(var g=0;g<e;g++)if(g in f&&b[q](c,f[g],g,a))return true;return false}