I highly suggest that you try C++ and QT.
QT is already well supported for Diablo and Fremantle, and the next release of Maemo (Harmattan) should be based on QT.
Learning QT will be much much easier than GTK+, coding will be faster and more fun, your application can be compiled in various platforms and you can even develop and debug in Windows, then simply run a qmake && make in a scratchbox environment.
Take a look at this tutorial: Getting started wit QT for Maemo
You still need a Linux box to compile your code for a Maemo device.
If you are using windows, you can setup ubuntu (or kubuntu) in a VirtualBox machine.
Maemo SDk + along with Scratchbox 2 is a better alternative than Maemo SDk & Scratchbox.
Personnally, I'm using QT creator in Windows, kubuntu 9.04 in VirtualBox, and I've never been happier.
When I started, I tried the "official" approach : Ubuntu, GTK+, C language and scratchbox 1. ... that was painful.