The best way is to already know the first few developers you are hiring. This is especially critical for developers you plan to compensate heavier with equity than salary at the early part of the start-up's life.
Otherwise, when hiring someone I don't know, I like to hire people who have done a project on the side for fun, especially if they are recent grads--Such a project shows initiative, creativity, and that the candidate actually enjoys building stuff enough that he does it for fun. To me, that's important, especially in an early-stage start-up--Often, 9-to-5 "this is just a job" isn't good enough in that situation.
A big part of a start-up being successful is who the founders know at all levels of the business. If the founders don't know anyone who can build the product, and don't have a way to find those people, it's probably the case that the founders/mgmt team aren't going to be sufficient to make the company a success.
Re-reading your question, though, I am not sure if your question is "I am an start-up looking to hire developers" or "I am a developer who wants to work at start-ups." If the latter is true, go to a start-up who has just closed a Series A round[1] and work there for a while. Some of those people, in 2-5 years, will often leave to start their own companies. If you do a good job, you might be invited to join them.
[1] San Jose Mercury News and others post a list of these companies every so often; and of course, look on the VC "tabloid" web sites like VentureBeat, etc. By the time Series A has happened, a start-up may have a recruiter on-board, even if he's just part-time.