How to add a class to a table cell (td) in reStructuredText

Question

I am trying to figure out if there any syntax where a class can be applied to a td in reStructuredText (RST), rather than a span around the table cell contents.

The closest I came was this:

.. role:: custom

.. csv-table:: Frozen Delights!
   :header: "Treat", "Quantity", "Description"
   :widths: 15, 10, 30

   "Albatross", 2.99, "On a stick!"
   "Crunchy Frog", 1.49, "If we took the bones out, it wouldn't be
   crunchy, now would it?"
   ":custom:`Gannet Ripple`", 1.99, "On a stick!"

Based on trying to combine "class/role" and tables. But it only produces a span with the "custom" class on the text in the td, not the td itself.