It seems most people didn't read your question properly, the question is concerning whether or not class methods accessing its own class' members should use getters and setters; not about an external entity accessing the class' members.
I wouldn't bother using getter and setter for accessing a class' own members.
However, I also keep my classes small (typically about 200-500 lines), such that if I do need to change the fields or change its implementations or how they are calculated, search and replace wouldn't be too much work (indeed, I often change variable/class/function names in the early development period, I'm picky name chooser).
I only use getter and setters for accessing my own class members when I am expecting to change the implementation in the near future (e.g. if I'm writing a suboptimal code that can be written quickly, but plans to optimize it in the future) that might involve radically changing the data structure used. Conversely, I don't use getter and setter before I already have the plan; in particular, I don't use getter and setter in expectation of changing things I'm very likely never going to change anyway.
For external interface though, I strictly adhere to the public interface; all variables are private, and I avoid friend
except for operator overloads; I use protected
members conservatively and they are considered a public interface. However, even for public interface, I usually still avoid having direct getters and setters methods, as they are often indicative of bad OO design (every OO programmers in any language should read: Why getter and setter methods are Evil). Instead, I have methods that does something useful, instead of just fetching the values. For example:
class Rectangle {
private:
int x, y, width, height;
public:
// avoid getX, setX, getY, setY, getWidth, setWidth, getHeight, setHeight
void move(int new_x, int new_y);
void resize(int new_width, int new_height);
int area();
}