Which parts of pipelines are done using CPU and which are done using GPU?
As far as I know...
It depends entirely on the hardware, driver and opengl implementation.
Everything you can do in OpenGL, works, but you can't be 100% sure where processing happens - it is conveniently hidden from you (it is actually one of OpenGL benefits).
There are full-software OpenGL emulators, for example - mesa3d (non-certified).
Put such opengl32.dll (if you're on windows) into your program folder, and everything will be running on CPU.
Typically, rasterization (last stage of pipeline - alpha-blend, putting pixel, ztest) is done in hardware. Get old videocard, and it is possible that the rest of functionality will run on CPU. Vertex transformations, vertex manipulations, and even standard lighting can be done on CPU (and they were done on CPU for a long time) - depending on videocard. However, I must admit that that videocards without hardware TL (transform and lighting) support are quite old. AFAIK, transformation and lighting is always performed on CPU if card only supports full hardware acceleration of DirectX 7 (windows-platform specific).
There may be platform dependent way to get videocard capabilities in openGL, though..
Side note:
DirectX gives you more information about card capabilities, and a ways to control what happens where (i.e. you can choose software T&L even if videocard supports hardware acceleration - in some cases this may be necessarry). This comes with penalty - DirectX is less flexible than OpenGL, harder to use, harder to experiment with, it is available on less platforms than OpenGL, and worrying about which feature is supported and which isn't takes development time.